Match wattage and PPFD to your footprint and growth stage. For modern high-efficiency panels (≥2.5 μmol/J), plan ~15–25 W/ft² for veg and 30–40 W/ft² for flower, then fine-tune with a PPFD meter.
| Grow Area | Veg (W) | Flower (W) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2×2 ft (0.6×0.6 m) | 80–120 | 120–200 | One compact panel; watch center hotspot |
| 3×3 ft (0.9×0.9 m) | 150–220 | 240–320 | Best value zone for panels |
| 2×4 ft (0.6×1.2 m) | 160–240 | 240–350 | Consider two smaller panels for edges |
| 4×4 ft (1.2×1.2 m) | 260–400 | 400–600 | Two panels spaced apart = better uniformity |
| 5×5 ft (1.5×1.5 m) | 400–550 | 600–800 | Panels work, bars often win for uniformity |
If efficacy is <2.4 μmol/J, size toward the high end. With ≥2.8 μmol/J, you can hit targets with fewer watts.
Veg: 300–600 μmol/m²/s
Flower: 700–1,000 μmol/m²/s (consider CO₂ if you run >900)
DLI = PPFD × hours × 0.0036
Example (flower): 800 PPFD × 12 h × 0.0036 = 34.6 DLI
Example (veg): 450 PPFD × 18 h × 0.0036 = 29.2 DLI
Why this matters: DLI ties light intensity and photoperiod to plant demand, so you size the panel and schedule together.
Panels: Best for 2×2, 3×3, 2×4—compact, budget-friendly, easy to mount.
Bars: Superior uniformity in 4×4–5×5 and larger; fewer hotspots at the same PPFD.
HPS: Legacy; high heat, bulb swaps—use only if you need the heat.
Veg: Start 18–24 in (45–60 cm) above canopy at 40–70% power.
Flower: 12–18 in (30–45 cm) targeting 700–900 PPFD to start.
Fine-tune by meter and leaf response: If edges lag, raise 1–2 in or split into two panels for coverage.
Full-spectrum white for seedling → harvest.
660 nm deep red improves flowering efficiency.
730 nm far-red: Use sparingly (end-of-day or separate channel) to influence morphology.
UV-A (365–405 nm): Optional; can boost secondary metabolites—limit exposure.
Must-haves
Efficacy ≥2.5 μmol/J
Honest PPFD maps for your footprint (look for min/avg ≥0.6–0.7)
Dimming (0–10 V or onboard knob)
Reliable driver (e.g., Mean Well/Inventronics), 3–5 year warranty
Nice-to-haves
Detachable/external driver (cooler canopy)
Far-red/UV on separate channels
Daisy-chain control or smart scheduling (sunrise/sunset ramps)
Sizing by watts only → Verify PPFD and uniformity; watts vary with efficacy.
Single big panel in a wide tent → Split into two panels or consider bars for edge PPFD.
Mounting too close → Bleaching; raise fixture 2–4 in or dim 10–20%.
Ignoring climate → Light doesn’t fix VPD/temps/CO₂. Dial environment first.
3×3 flower: 300 W panel at ~14–16 in, dimmed to hit 800–850 PPFD avg, DLI ~34–36.
2×4 veg: 240–300 W (two 120–150 W panels) ~20 in, 450–550 PPFD avg, DLI ~29–36 (18/6).
Q1: Can one panel cover a 4×4 for flower?
Yes—400–600 W high-efficiency can work, but two panels usually give better edge coverage.
Q2: Do I need CO₂?
Above ~900–1,000 PPFD, CO₂ (800–1,200 ppm) helps plants use extra light—only if temps, VPD, and nutrition are tuned.
Q3: Are “blurple” panels still relevant?
No. Modern full-spectrum white panels outperform them in efficiency and plant morphology.
Q4: How long will a good panel last?
Often >50,000 hours to ~80% output if kept cool and clean.
1) Measure the footprint, 2) pick panel wattage using the table, 3) verify PPFD/uniformity, and 4) tune height/dimmer to hit DLI. Get those right and a panel LED grow light will deliver consistent, efficient results in small to mid-size spaces.
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